Trattoria Il Sottomarino - Livorno, Italy
     
Last Visit: Nov 2007       
 
  
  
      

OVERALL

I've done a lot of research on Tuscan food prior to going there, but one surprise is the lack of abundance in seafood selections.  You would think that given the gourmet eating culture and long coast line that they would have developed a taste for seafood.  I did find that seafood is a big thing in Livorno and it is one of the places that I want to check out during the trip, so I picked this seemingly obscure little place with a strange theme - well, at least submarines are a big part of Italy's war strategy....

FOOD

Seafood is the theme in Livorno so that's what we've tried.  It turned out that even the bread was amazingly good, so were the entrees and desserts - or maybe it was the hunger after touring Pisa....  One reminder is that Tuscan DO NOT dip their bread in olive oil and balsamic despite of the fact Tuscany is THE place in the world to find the best of both and in America you'd never consider an Italian joint authentic unless they bring you olive oil and balsamic vinager with the bread.

Then we had their famous mixed fried seafood - first the squids, shrimps and other mysterious stuff - we suppose they are whatever's available in the Meditteranean that morning.  The waiter insisted that the kids had to have fries with the seafood too, and in Italy you do not argue with a waiter!  And then, we had the even more famous cacciucco, or what other italians call cioppino.  I couldn't communicate with the waiter at all, but this was easy to order the seafood stew because the table (occupied by some mafia types) beside ours is having the same thing.  Overall the food was a little bland but very well balanced in taste and spiciness, probably characteristic of Tuscan-style seafood.

We wanted their famous frozen lemon sorbetto, so the kids got those, but the waiter insisted (yeah again) that we should try their house special dessert, ice cream with lemon liquer.  OH MAN, it was pretty nasty, really potent alcohol with ice cream, totally odd combination, but I got a bottle of it anyways - maybe I'll get to like it....

SERVICE

After a few days in Italy, we've become pretty used to two things: 1) if you run into a waiter that speaks ANY Engish at all, you are in luck, and 2) if your waiter feels that you should have something, just say SI with a smile.  Both happened in Il Sottomarino - the waiters - one of them might be an owner - tried very hard to communicate with us, especially with the Italian-only menu, but not much came across, and he insisted that we should order fries for the kids and that ice cream liquer thing.   They were warm and friendly but overall the service was laid back and spotty.  Ok maybe it was a language and culture thing.....

AMBIENCE

This is not a fancy restaurant with nice decorations, but it's DEFINITELY got character, especially to those submarine fans.  It's got a ton of pictures and navy memorabilias, very cool when you are having seafood.  The fixtures are old but welcoming, just a very comfortable place for lunch.  I think it might be too gloomy for dinner though.

VALUE

Livorno is like any other mid-size port cities - the atmosphere is blue-collar and the restaurants are priced more reasonably.  Considering that we had a full seafood meal, it was extremely economial for the budget travelers who want to have a unique experience and enjoy superb seafood.  We've paid for much more for beef and port eating at Florence, so if you are in Pisa and want a great value for lunch, this is a do-not-miss kind of place!

BOTTOMLINE

After a few days in Florence, you would have noticed that pork and beef RULE the city.  It shouldn't be a surprise since it's surrounded by hills and farms.  So, give yourself a break by visiting Livorno and enjoy some outstanding authentic Italian seafood at very reasonable price - EVEN when a US dollar only gives you 0.75 Euro!

BTW

Livorno is probably the most under-rated tourist site in Tuscany.  Of course, it's no Pisa or Siena, but it's a great place to check out a typical European coastal city, enjoy good seafood, and check out the unpretentious sites like Old Venice and Fort, and take a picture at the Terrazza Mascagni (see my travel journal for a scene there).  It's a good break from the tourist-intensive city of Pisa.

  

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