Mystery Critic
The Best Restaurants Out There - And Much More!
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Chef Jessie, Rockwell Center, Makati, Philippines [former Le Souffle] Last Visit: Aug 2009  "...I was pleasantly surprised when I tasted France in their dishes..." OVERALL I've always been a fan of French food, which I devoured as much as I can when I visited Paris. When I came to Manila, I obviously had to check out Le Souffle - the much-hyped small chain of French restaurants spread out in Metro Manila. The one in Rockwell Center is the most convenient to me since I live right there. After a couple visits, it is clear to me that this restaurant got all those rave reviews for one good reason: It's a place you can come again and again to enjoy a spectacular show of culinary mastery and - what Filipinos are best at - a top-of-the-world romantic ambience. Of course you've got to ignore the screaming kids and half-naked condo habitants first.... The menu at Le Souffle is a thick one and we've tried quite a number of its dishes and they are mostly traditional selections. Escargot, goose liver, onion soup, steak with all kinds of sauces, duck a la orange, baked fish..... You name it, they got it. The only creativity is revealed in their salads and, you guessed it, souflles, where the combinations of flavors are the most I've ever seen.
Yes they do have souffles - And they are excellent too! I wouldn't have the savory ones again because it was not that great and the cap kind of collapse, which I heard for some strange reason the savory ones tend to collapse more easily. But the Grand Marnier.... MMMM-MMMM!!! Perfectly done with a firm top, the right thickness inside and the perfect amount of liquer, totally amazing. The only problem is that it was tiny, simply too small for my big appetite. Besides the disappointing savory souffle, another reason for not giving them five smileys is their steak. Don't get me wrong, they are not bad at all, but given that steaks are their 4th batter, you'd expect a homerun. Well, it turned out to be a 3rd base hit at best. One problem is the geography - we're pretty far from where these Angus beef came from and I could, unfortunately, taste the freezer in the meat. Also, while the sauces were good, they were not great. The green pepper sauce just didn't have the kick - I think the peppercorns probably got exposed to moisture (surprise! humidity here it 90% everyday). I know, haven't had one real good steak in the Philippines and looks like that trend is going to continue (see my other major steak disappointment here).... Finally, beware of their coffee, it's incomprehensible that a restaurant which can crank out a perfect souffle cannot make a decent cup of coffee - it almost taste American (now THAT is an insult).SERVICE While most restaurants in the Philippines offer decent level of service, Le Souffle definitely takes the service to a new level. Waiters are trained much like those you find in other big city French restaurants, including the way they pull your chair, lay down your napkin, set your utensils, pour your wine, and serve your dishes. The only problem is that they are a bit too professional, and became "unfilipino" - you don't detect much warmth, but mostly getting-my-job-done attitude and even an occasional annoyance, like when I gave repeated hint that he should pour the bottle of wine that we brought. Overall, I think all waiters in the country should come and check out what is possible when it comes to professional service.  This is where Le Souffle in Rockwell sets itself apart from many, many other restaurants in the same caliber in a hotel or downtown. It's one a second floor overlooking a lush garden and swimming pool, with full sun-light from the two-story high ceiling with lots of windows or a glimpse of lights from the Rockwell community at night. Not only is the location a natural advantage, the interior is simply amazing especially IF you appreciate art. The decorations and selection of paintings are simply eye-opening - so much so that I am SURE a world renowned artist took part in the interior design effort.
VALUE You might think I am crazy to spend P2000 a head and think that this place offers a great deal. But I actually feel that I found a superb bargain!! Given the ultra-fresh ingredients, detailed execution, professional service and a top-notch surroudning, the price is a great deal! Don't even think about paying anything less than US$100 in any US restaurant for what you'd get here for $40. Another IMPORTANT value proposition: If you are a Rockwell Club member, it only costs you P250 (five buck US!!) to open a bottle of wine there. Even for non-members, it's only P500. That is a STEAL - especially given that their wines are marked up 250%. Walk across the tunnel to Powerplant and get a nice bottle sold at the basement wine shop, and you're all set!
BOTTOMLINE I came SOOOOO close to giving them five stars, but at the end I just couldn't. It's not because I didn't have an amazing time each time I sat and had their well-executed dining extravaganza, but they are so unfortunately slightly short on each of my scoriing categories. Nevertheless, at a price slightly higher than TGIF, you simply CANNOT go wrong with this place! Forget TGIF or Tony Romas and head for Le Souffle. And even better - bring your kids along and teach them a real dining experience should be!! (I mean, you won't look out of place anyways...) BTW I have no idea how things are in their other locations - I can only imagine they are as good or better. Also, it is absolutely common to come in just for desserts and coffee (but read my earlier review) after a dinner at Rockwell. Don't forget the Grand Marnier (or whatever flavor) souffle!!
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