MR. MC'S DREAM TRIP TO TUSCANY, ITALY

Yes, Mr. MC FINALLY made it to Tuscany, his lifetime dream destination! Due to his family status, he couldn't really enroll in a cooking school like he had hoped for; however, he and the travel companions (rest of the family and another friend's family) had a great time.

Here is the itinerary (and feel free to copy - it was GREAT!) followed by detailed write-up. I will also start putting in restaurant reviews for the places we went to that are worth my time to write about.


Day 0 Departure from SFO

Day 1 Frankfurt - Sausages, Florence - Mercato Lorenzo, Tripe Sandwich, Shopping / Oviesse, Dinner at Trattoria ZaZa

Day 2 Florence Mercato Centrale - Nerbone tripe sandwich and coffee, Leccio Outlet Mall, Lunch at Fiesole at Le Cave Di Maiano, Palazzo Pitti and streets of Oltrarno, Ponte Vecchio, Dinner at tourist rip-off cafe

Day 3 Pisa - Leaning Tower and Duomo, Livorno - Seafood, sea terrace and New Venice, Castello Oliveto castle winery, Florence - Dinner at napoli pizza / seafood place and gelato at Vivoli

Day 4 Florence - Duomo / Battistero, Santa Croce church and leather school, Greve in Chianti - Downtown, (more) Nerbone tripe sandwiches, winery and castle, Gaiole in Chianti - Barone Ricasoli castle, Dinner at Messere on Via Guelfa

Day 5 San Gimignano, Siena - Lunch at Il Campo, Nannini panfortes, winery shopping, Florence - I Gigli shoppiing, Dinner at Osteria Pepo near Mercato Centrale (good steaks!!)

Day 6 Florence - Piazza Signora, Uffizi, Ponte Vecchio, Duomo again, stuck in the airport ALL afternoon, drove to Bologna and stayed at Sheraton (with a long sigh of relief)

Day 7 Bologna - Shopped at BIG supermarket, rest of the day stuck in airport - but it's a nice one; took off in the afternoon for Frankfurt (where we stuck for ANOTHER night)



DAYCITY-REGION SITE-ACTIVITES
0 SF Depart from SFO
  
1Frankfurt 11am - Layover at Frankfurt, enjoyed a German sausage (the white one was on edible with mustard, the other one looks just like the breakfast links in the US) and pretzel (not so great.... taste like a bad pretzel that you'd have in a company cafeteria)

Florence2pm - Checked into Hotel Colomba, family hotel in a great location (click to see review). I ended up having some issues with the hotel, but ultimately I would recommend it anytime because of the amazing location for either walking or driving tourists


3pm - Mercato Lorenzo - The most organized and expensive street market I've ever seen in my life. The prices are typically higher than the equivalent items you find in an average mall in the US!!


3pm - Tripe Sandwich Stand - We heard SOOOOO much about it we had to try first thing. This on right in the middle of Mercato Lorenzo has tripes in chunk (vs. diced up ones like in Nerbone). It's probably the best lunch food we've had in Italy.


4pm - Accademia - David's statue alone was worth the ticket, but that's probably the only thing worth seeing there. Kids were super excited to see all the naked statues and paintings - Americans (even the little ones) are after all far more conservative than the europeans.
  6pm - Gelateria Carabe - Mediocre to me, but it's the typically creamy gelato that Italy offers. This is definitely NOT a tourist trap though. We didn't see any Sicilian desserts as their website suggests, nevertheless the ice cream was pretty good. We then walked the streets to check out SUPER expensive shops and department store Oviesse. Prices at this cheap department store is same or higher than the US-equivalent.


7pm - Dinner at Trattoria Za Za (click to see review) - It's as good (and touristy) as all the reviews suggest, but no regrets. It's a nice dining place to start the trip with
  
2Florence7am - Bright and early walk to Mercato Centrale - FUN!! All the food and produce look WONDERFUL. Had the famous Nerbone tripe sandwiches to kick off the day
  9am - Picked up rental car from National - beginning of an ever-moviing nightmare.... This 9-passenger van turned out to be the biggest car found on the streets of Florence except the public buses (that don't go into the lanes like we do)
 Leccio10am - Outlet Mall in Leccio - It's our first real driviing destination in Italy and it's really an eye-opening experience. It's in the middle of NOWHERE by any standard and Leccio is a tiny town with like two streets

Fiesole1pm - Recommended by Samantha in Travel Channel we went to Le Cave di Maiano (click to see review) - WHAT a DRIVE!!! One way most of the time and almost hit the walls couple times. The food was spectacular in a beautiful setting, probably one of the most enjoyable meals we had in Italy. DO NOT miss the appetizers!!

Oltrarno

4pm - Drove and got lost (thanks for our lack of familiarity with direction and our GPS) and drove some more. Finally we made it to Piazza Michelangelo on the other side of the river. Spectacular view of Florence under our feet! The weather was misty but the scenary was still unbeatable.



5pm - It took us a while to find a TINY parking space near Palazzo Pitti, but we managed to visit this beatiful palace of the Medici family. Lots of lavishly decorated rooms, but after 30 min they look a bit dull....


7pm - Walked to Ponte Vecchio; many stores are closing but we weren't going to buy anything anyways. The jewelry there is nice to look at, but it has a bit of that Italian "exaggeration" that doesn't really look fit our fine Asian wives. Took some pictures on Ponte Vecchio but the best view of the bridge is of course when we're NOT on the bridge.... Stay tuned!

  
3Pisa

10am - Leaning Tower of Pisa - Wow, a childhood dream comes true! It's really as tilted as it looks on the pictures, and we of course took some silly pictures under it like all the tourists would.

The Pisa Duomo is interesting - it's got lots of GREAT art inside but it's FREE!  The Pisa
Campo di Miracoli is really a great deal, especially if you can get here without having to join one of those hyper expensive group tours.

Livorno12pm - We went there to see the Mediterranean Sea, but also to have some seafood. You can't go to Livorno without having its famous cacciucco at the well-reviewed Trattoria il Sottomarino (click to see review). It really very good - the seafood was super fresh and reasonably priced.


2pm - After the heavy lunch we need to walk around a bit, but it was wet out there. Therefore we decided to go see the Mediterranean Sea at a largely over-looked spot that will get you the picture-perfect view of the sea - Terrazza Mascagni. In most of the tour books you won't even find this obscure terrace by the sea, but it's really fun and worth a visit.


Castelfiorentino

3pm - After driving around in the New Venice zone of Livorno, which is kind of cool given that it's nowhere near Venice, we decided to take a long drive so that kids can get a good nap. We headed for Castello Oliveto. It turned out to be longer than we had expected - almost two hours - and harder too because the last stretch was rather steep and unpaved. By the time we got there it was closed but we got a good look at this ancient castle and its beautiful surrounding countryside.

Florence 5pm - After another long and difficult drive we finally made it back to Florence. An interesting thing happened - we were not allowed to pull into the street that we're staying at!! We have no idea how to ask the reason and it was traffic hour, so the police just chased us away. We decided to drive straight to our dinner destination, and again by God's grace we found a decent parking spot (again one that can barely fit out gigantic full-size van)
  7pm - We arrived at the one of the busiest dining areas in Florence and had a rather inspiring meal at Il Pizzaiuolo (click to see review). It's supposed to be the best pizza place in Florence and - strange enough - a good seafood spot.
  10pm - Since we are close to supposedly the BEST gelateria in Florence (or according to some reviews best in Italy!), we had to check it out. It's Gelateria Vivoli, featured in just about every writeup about Florence. It turned out to be good, but honestly for a not-so-feverent ice cream fan I've had enough of ice cream in the last few days to last me a life time.
  
4Florence9am - We started the day on our feet - THANK GOD - so that we can forget about our RV for a while. Walked through the famous Duomo and took pictures in front of the super famous Battistero door. WOW that was some door - but I was disappointed to find out that it's a replica.
  

10am - What's a nice Firenze morning without checking out some tombs? We headed for Santa Croce in the morning to see the dead famous people. Kids didn't like the place at all - just too dark, cold and spooky even for my taste. If you visit Santa Croce, you've GOT to check out the Leather School. We saw a guy started with a leather letter holder kind of thing and engrave gold ornament around it. It was cool, a first time even for Mr. MC who grew up in a country that makes a ton of leather goods.

  12pm - It started to rain so we decided to pick up the car. Ladies and the kids had an uninspiring "Light Lunch" (that's what the sign outside of the cafe says) and guys walked 1/2 hr in the rain to pick up the car to get them and we're heading to Chianti!
 Greve, Chianti

2pm - It was in Greve in Chianti where my love affair with Tuscany began. Ok please stop throwing up now. Greve is a super charming town AND it actually has a little downtown that you can drive right into!! The 2nd reason for my love for the place is that it has a Nerbone - a full-size one too, not like the little dump in Mercato Centrale. We obviously had to have another tripe sandwich - YUM!!!

YES, look at the size of this monster..... Biggest vehicle a tourist ever driven in Tuscany.... Or maybe Italy....

 
3pm - The first winery we checked out had a somewhat modest castle, Castello Vicchimaggio, that is now a tourist lodge - so glad we are not staying here because it really kind of middle of nowhere - and we tasted and bought some GREAT wine there.

Gaiole, Chianti

4pm - The 2nd one is a REAL castle on the hilltop, Barone Ricasoli. We decided to go the castle first before it gets dark, but unfortunately we missed the winery. The castle was TOTALLY worth the drive and tour ($5 ticket just to walk around it, not going inside). Super spectacular structure given that it's 500+ yrs old, and the scenary is breathtaking, especially for someone afraid of height (like Mr. MC).

The sunset view from the castle was particularly spectacular. Here you go....


Florence7pm - We got back to Florence and smart Mr. MC decided to ask the hotel owner for a place to find the best Bistecca Florentina. Of course he recommended his cousin's joint, Trattoria Il Messere (that's our guess) and it turned out to be the most expensive meal of our trip. Most of it was the wine (two bottles - highest priced ones we had) and two steaks that we terminated. Overall a pretty good local high-end place that I'd recommend.
  
5San Gimignano

9am - This is our biggest day! We packed our breakfast and headed for the Tuscany towns renowned for their historic beauty. It took us just about an hour to get to San Gimignano and WOW, that is one SPECTACULAR ancient town sitting on a hill and has a ton (well 13 to be exact) towers high up in the sky. We took a walk along it's famous entrace path and checked out the stores (many closed because it's Sun). This is a MUST-DO in Tuscany! The piazza, however, has a well and it's not so impressive because you can't really see the towers from there.


Siena

11am - We follow some good direction to pull into a garage that is closest to Il Campo in Siena, only to find out that the entrance is too low for our HUGE van. Once again, DO NOT EVER get a 9-passenger van in Europe. It's more a liability than an asset.

The view of the city from the outside is already stunning, but inside the walls is a totally different world. Il Campo, the central square, in Siena is as pretty as everyone described and more! It's got that aroma of history and pursuit of beauty in the air that I can still smell. Thank God the stores are mostly closed (Sun AND noon time), so we had lots of time to sit in the famous Il Palio cafe and enjoy the atmosphere. The square is by no means empty, but we were told that this is as empty as it gets - a Sun in a low season.

  

2pm - Even though most stores are closed, Mr. MC managed to find some food to buy (ha ha, what's new - the WORLD renowned panforte shop Nannini. It's got an array of meticulously-crafted desserts that look French, so I got a whole bunch of different types of panfortes as souvenirs.

The duomo - main church - in Siena is just as stunning. It's so white that it looks like it's made by marble, but we then found out it's made by the same material as Michelangelo's David. Wow, it must have taken a few days to finish all those statues. The kids are not so excited about checking out another cold and dark church so decided to head out.

 Florence4pm - THAT'S IT, it IS official now - Mr. MC is officially the FIRST tourist who spent almost a week in Florence / Tuscany without having stepped into Uffizi!! I really could not argue my way back into the city due to the stupid "Ecological Day" restriction on driving into the city. OH WELL, so what if we never got to see the best collection of renaissance art..... On a positive note, this gave me the perfect excuse to plan a trip back here soon, before Venus goes back to her shell.
 Prato

6pm - In complete frustration, the group decided to go shopping. Bad move for the pocket. Frown. With the help of GPS and some road signs (ok hardly any that helped) we found I Gigli - a GIANT American-style mall that is actually rather un-american in design details. I have NEVER seen a mall with more people except on Dec 26 in Valley Fair. You have to take out a weapon to grab a parking space.

The ladies got some nice wool clothes for the kids while men watched our kids playing at a 5 Euro jump house (that's right US$30 gone for the lousiest commercial jumphouse I've ever seen) with a bunch of super-charged, WWF-qualifying Italian children whose proud parents must think they are grooming the future Luca Toni.

Mr. MC then found what he's here to find - cheap and good wine - at Panorama supermarket. This is like a Super Walmart - it has like 40 cashiers and it carries everything from cradle to grave under good giant roof. The food sections are huge and fun to shop at. We got olive oil, vinager and wine there - especially the discounted Brunello (YES they actually exist) at 12 euros. SWEET! I don't feel so bad about missing the Uffizi anymore....

To complete the visit, we had some REAL gelatos at the mall at a supposedly famous chain Ice, It. It's cheap - 1.3 Euro for a two-scoop small, and it's not bad. Not as smooth as the others, more like ice cream in America, taste great nevertheless. We're now ready to head back to the ecologically-sound city of Florence.

 Florence9pm - Our reservation at Il Latini is GONE. Oh well, we can't eat that full fixed menu meal anyways..... We walked around the Mercato Centrale area and decided to try Trattoria Pepo, another widely-reviewed spot. It was very good except we didn't really appreciate the tripes cooked in tomato sauce.... I must note that the wine was SUPER cheap - starting from 10 euros and 30 is like the most expensive bottle! Our 20 euro wine was perfectly fine with the food (which includes the HUGE bistecca florentina)
  
6 Florence9am - The ladies got up bright and early to go to Mercato Centrale. Got some nice pastas, porcini mushrooms and sun-dried tomatoes. Of course they brought back some nice tripe sandwiches for us to enjoy. We returned our monster van - only took an hour - and Mr. MC was NEVER happier to get rid of a rental car. We have a couple hours so we decided to walk the city.
  

10am - We did a usual tourist route - Duomo (well because it just on our way to anywhere from the hotel) => Mercato Nuovo (not for souvenirs - just to see the pig) => Piazza Signora => Uffizi (hey need some pictures of the outside at least) => Ponte Vecchio. Passed by the most tourisy street and had one last gelato (not so great - had to have it because we used their restroom).


  1pm - Got to the airport and it DID NOT smell right...... Lines too long and people looked anxious...... The weather was gloomy but not that bad......
  

4pm - 3 hours later, we were informed that all flights in and out of Florence have been cancelled, we are rebooked to a flight from Bologna AND the last bus to Bologna is gone. Time to find the internet - YEAH right, the airport hardly has a working restroom - intenet my foot! We managed to pick up a rental minivan (note the word "mini") and we're heading to Bologna.

Look to your right - would you rather be in this nicely "compact", chaotic and nothing-works Florence "international" airport.....

  

..... or this bright, spacious and shiny Bologna airport (which is nice and big but very old)?? 

6 pm - After a fun afternoon at the airport, it's time for us to get some food. This Bologna town looks more like an industrial suburb in the Midwest. We drove around and following the recommendation of the hotel front desk we got to this little family-run place. This is a depressing pizzaria with an obviously anxious-looking owner who's never seen this many Chinese people in his life. The pizzas and pasta are not bad, but what's the deal with the 3.5 euro coke (that my friend had to have to relieve himself from his headache)? Also, despite of all warning signs I had to try their dessert. OUCH, another mistake, that was the worst bread pudding I've had in my life.

 

 Bologna9pm - Nothing beats sleeping in a Sheraton and smell the American air after an exhausting day in a strange country. Sheraton Bologna left an everlasting impression in me. Even the kids loved it - our boy tucked himself into bed and fell asleep after saying goodnight to everyone. Our girl laid in bed and watch Ghost till she was tired. Mr. MC took a LONG shower and put on the American-size rope. We even got internet in the room to work. AAAAAH......
  
7Bologna

10am - My friend and I went alone to fill up the tank in the car and get a backpack for the 12 bottles of wine I got. We went to this really HUUUUUUGE supermarket with 50 checkout cashiers (seriously big, bigger than the last one we went to - it's as big or bigger than the biggest walmart!!!).

  1pm - We were informed that we couldn't board the flight to Munich because we were late and it took them a lifetime to get our bookings correct. SO we're stuck in Bologna airport for another four hours! Granted there are much worse airport to be stuck at - it's spacious and has some interesting shops like Ferrari and Ducati - both companies apparently located in the vicinity of Bologna. We even got some couples for snacks that include a slice of Magherita pizza and a coke.

Frankfurt10pm - By the time we got to Frankfurt, InterCity Airport Hotel's restaurant was already closed. We had to order food from the bar. I was given an "anything you want" offer so I order three different beers and five entrees. They're not bad, sort of like how food tastes like back home in the USA.
  
8SFOHome Sweet Home.... Technically it's still Day 7 becasuse we crossed the internationl date line.... Never felt so good to be home, but I miss Tuscany already.....

THE END for now but we'll remember the good, bad and ugly of Italy and Tuscany for a long time!