Highlands Steakhouse, SM Mall of Asia, Manila, Philippines
Last Visit: Jan 2010
"...you'll have a good steak meal in a comfortable setting..."
OVERALL
Filipinos are not big beef eater - this whole country's cuisine is much more centered around seafood, pork and poultry. The distinct taste and smell of "tropical cows" actually bother some North Americans and even locals, thus you see Australian and American beef all over the markets. It's not a surprise that there are very few good steakhouses around, but Highlands has done a great jobs both in terms of creating a steakhouse atmosphere and preparing some delicious steaks - only if you are willing to pay hefty sums for some relatively tiny pieces of beef....
FOOD
The menu is pretty traditional American - grilled ribeye and new york steaks, prime ribs, and appetizers and side orders that you would be expect to see in a typical American restaurant. The steaks, of course, is the heart of the dining experience. From the steak cooler display to the classic layout on the plates (which as you can see are definitely not american)
, the restaurant has tried its best to present a quality steak experience.
The steaks are decent-quality US Angus beef, so there's no "local" flavor for sure; however, they are not quite like the fresh and juice steaks that you'd have in the US, just a bit on the dry side and, even though it's rare, slightly tougher than what I'd expect.
The steaks come with corn, vegetables and a somewhat strange gravy that is good but doesn't taste very "american".
Highlight of the meal was a "cook-it-yourself" steak which I though is pretty neat. We don't see that often in the US but it's a good idea - guarantees a hot steak. Too bad the meat itself was subpar - not exactly "melt-in-your-mouth" tender, but it does smell very good on the little hot plate. Frankly, I was a little tempted to give them a 4 for food because of the effort they've made in a country with no steak-devouring tradition (yes, this is Spanish but not exactly Argentina!), but they really, really could have done better.
SERVICE
I almost gave them 2 stars for this if it wasn't for the waiters who were dressed up as cowboys. The staff looks like they work in Ritz Carlton, i.e. they just don't have the typically wonderful filipino service attitude. They are reasonable professional and efficient, but they just didn't seem to care. Maybe they didn't appreciate us bringing two small children there? Or they don't like chinese people? Who knows. They do look funny, my kids though their customes were cool. Thus the three smileys.
AMBIENCE
This is one of those restaurants that may leave an impression because of its distinct ambience. not food. First there's the ocean view. If you are not afraid of getting evaporated by heat, you should go at 5:30pm, enjoy sunset and a cocktail, and then have wine with your steak - ALL happening outdoor. We didn't have the courage though. Even if you don't do that, the interior is very nicely and accurately decorated as "western", and things are laid out nicely so you will be comfortable. You can also see the open kitchen from any angle. The cowboy waiters definitely were a good addition to the overall ambience too.
VALUE
If this restaurant is sitting in San Francisco or New York, even in the burbs, I would say the value is pretty spectacular; however, it's in a middle-class (remember, that's by developing country standard!) mall surrounded by mediocre shops and other food joints. To charge in the neighborhood of $25 - $40 for an average size steak is pretty excessive. It definitely tries very hard to be "upscale", but it is really not an upscale experience, thus I 'd take my money elsewhere in the mall IF I were looking for a good value.
BOTTOMLINE
It's not easy to find a decent piece of steak in Manila, and forget about a genuine steakhouse look and feel. Highlands offers both and I would highly recommend expats from Texas to go there after six months away from the Republic. Your wallet might sting (well, not if you are a real expat making USDs) and you won't find any southern accent (or southern-standard steak) there, but you'll have a good steak meal in a comfortable setting - and let's not forget Manila sunset - with a bottle of overprice red wine.
BTW
I was there mid-week at 6pm and they almost couldn't come up with a table for us. I'm not sure whether the economic crisis has lessened their business, but perhaps making a reservation is good idea - especially if you want an indoor table with ocean view - HIGHLY recommended!!